Thursday, June 26, 2008

It felt good, this journey

Sometimes there is so much to say you don't know where to begin. So let me start with the most basic question: "Why?

Why did I visit Badrinath-Kedarnath?

When a friend posed this question, it struck me that no one asks why you are going to Manali, or Sri Lanka or Sun City. That, you see, is a holiday.

But Badrinath and Kedarnath, despite their spectacular locations, are not holiday spots. Getting there, even in this modern age, requires a fair bit of commitment and hardship. There are only two reasons to make the trip:

1) As a tag along. Sab ja rahe hain, to chalo hum bhi
And yes, this was part of the reason. With 14 of us on board our very own Garwhal Mandal Vikas Nigam bus, armed with enough matharis, laddoos and achar to last weeks, it did feel like a picnic.

But there is a second, more important reason which made the sometimes long and endlessly bumpy ride in that bus where seats never reclined worth it. And that is reason number two.

2) Because I believe.
I believe there is a Higher Power out there. You can call it God, or a Force, a Universal Energy.

The first time I visited Rishikesh last year, I felt its Presence. And right then I said to myself, I want to come back again, and go further up into the mountains.

And so it came to be.

I wanted to make this journey, this yatra as we call it, to thank God for all the wonderful people in my life and the experiences and achievements I have had so far.

I never felt the need to do this before.

I have visited many, many temples, as a reluctant tag along. When I was 11, my parents took us on a 21 day trip of south India which basically involved visiting a series of temples. All I remember is we had some very tasty guavas on the way to Tirupati. And that eight of us (six adults and two kids) would somehow fit into a single Ambassador.

The only place I really liked on that trip was Bangalore.

In 1986, I visited Vaishno Devi. It was the anticlimax to a lovely 'LTC' holiday in Kashmir. We actually walked all the way up and back and I still remember the ice cold water you have to wade through to have darshan.

But it was a chore. I could not figure out why people were so enthusiastic about the journey. How so many old people, small kids, women with babies - many of them barefoot - made it there with a smile in their eyes and a song on their lips.

I know now, it is faith. Theirs was an unquestioning faith, mine I arrived at after much rejection, deliberation, contemplation and cross examination.

It does not matter - we are all fellow travellers, on a common journey.

So am I religious? Not really. But I do appreciate Hinduism - as a philosophy and a way of life - far more today.

Enough said, on with the journey....

Pilgrim's Progress - 1
We are at Sonprayag, waiting to be released towards Gaurikund. The 'base camp' from where you make the trek up to Kedarnath. It is a narrow one way stretch. Badly managed, long line of vehicles. Still, you are grateful to be here in this bus. Imagine in earlier times the days and months pilgrims took to make it on foot, even till here.

We left Rishikesh the previous morning, at 6 am. Close to 12 hours later we were in Guptkashi, where we stayed the night. Sonprayag is an hour from here.

The bus finally gets the green signal. We chug along the girlishly giggling Mandakini river. The greenery is lush, dense, pristine despite human presence.

Except for plastic debris, kahin kahin.

At Gaurikund the scene is chaotic. It's a 14 km trek upto Kedarnath, and a fairly steep ascent upto 12,000 feet. The rasta, rudimentary. You have two choices:
a) Walk
b) Take a horse

Those who are too young, old or infirm for the horse have the option of a 'palkhi' (a chair carried up by four brave young men) or a 'pitthu' (a cane chair carried by a single person).

Some of us chose to walk. We did about 5 kms but then succumbed to the lure of the horse. By this time it was raining.

Cheap plastic raincoats on sale, all the way, along with tea, coffee, Kurkure and Maggi.

As you hang on to the beast you reflect on what it must feel like to carry your burden. And the young men who lead these horses up and down twice a day, and yet have a smile on their faces.

They aren't cursing their luck or their fate. Yeh unki life hai, usey jee rahein hain aur mazaa bhi le rahe hain.

As we ascend it gets colder, hazier, and the rain is now incessant. Finally, we are there.

Kedarnath is a very ancient temple. Legend has it that it was first established by the Pandavas. In fact it is the only temple I have ever seen or heard of which actually has idols of the Pandavas (the 5 brothers, Kunti, Draupadi and Krishna). Although these are not actually worshipped.

When the clouds clear up, we see the most spectacular snow-covered Himalayan mountain range. Not far far away but almost like you could walk an hour and get there (an illusion, but nevertheless).

Behind the temple is the path that the Pandavas are believed to have taken at the end of their life, the Indian version of 'stairway to heaven'. You even see the same black dogs around here that they say followed the Pandavas on their ascent towards swarg.

The present day temple was established by Adi Shankaracharya in the 8th century AD. And thankfully not much has been done to 'modernise' it.

The one difference between then and now I guess is the fact that if you are willing to pay, you can get a more exclusive darshan at a pre-fixed timing. And well, we took that option and took an 'appointment' for 1 am.

You still end up standing in line for at least half an hour, feeling oxygen deprived. But you spend a little more time in the inner sanctum.

The moment I entered it, I felt something. A vibration, or an energy, or what - I do not know. But it was incredible. It was uplifting, and yet humbling at the same time.

I closed my eyes, so I could feel it, connect with it, be one with it. I knew WHY I had made this journey, I felt a secret of some kind has been revealed.

My mother poked me, wanting me to participate in pouring the ghee and rice and other pooja activity.

The cold air outside was exhilrating. There was no electricity all night at the dingy hotel we stayed in. Horrible food and no hot water. But it did not matter.

We enjoyed a really nice breakfast at a local dhaba (aloo parathas the size of frisbees!) and made our way back down.

Swarglok ya nahin, mujhe nahin pata. Magar yahan aakar ek mann mein shanti zaroor mili.

I think I will make a trip back here someday - but next time on foot.

Oh by the way, there is also the option of helicopter. It costs Rs 8000. I wonder though, if it feels as good to get there without any struggle.

There are some things money can buy, for everything else there's faith.

Tomorrow: Part II

14 comments:

  1. There are some things money can buy, for everything else there's faith. Quote of the day!

    Good travelogue, but Yeh unki life hai, usey jee rahein hain aur mazaa bhi le rahe hain might not be completely true. For many of them, this might be the only option of earning a livelihood. And many of them might not have the 'job satisfaction'.

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  2. Rashmi, Are they horses or ponies (tattus)?

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  3. That took me right back to 1998 when I did my trip to Badri-Kedar! Had the most terrifying horse ride up to kedar. And the aloo-paranthas are still fresh in memory. :-)

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  4. http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/south_asia/7474682.stm

    Are you there to experience this?

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  5. "Sometimes there is so much to say you don't know where to begin."

    Many times indeed...

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  6. You should have hired a Qualis from Haridwar/Rishikesh instead of trying the roadways buses, much more comfortable that way. For the lesser mortals (like me!) who trek, the porters a BIG nuisance as they rudely rush past you yelling 'shide shide shide'. On our way up, it started raining and we were completely drenched when we reached the top after walking in the rain for 2-3 hours. It was around 5pm (the time when the temple reopens in the evening) and we patiently waited in the pouring rain for 15-20 min.
    Needless to say that we couldnt walk properly for a few days, but thanks to God's grace, we came back in one piece.

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  7. Nice write up.thanks! I definitely want to visit this place...may be next time I am in India.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Hi maam,
    You really have a very good blog...................it's really informative and i liked it very much...........i became a regular reader

    ReplyDelete
  9. There is a place near Tiruvannamalai in Tamil Nadu called Parvadamalai. Basically it is a hill but with out a path. You need to walk over stones that were not there made for you to walk. Also, the final streach is rock. Just rock. You need to climb up the rock by using the metal sticks implanted on them. There is also couple of ropes either side for you to maintain balance. Its almost a 70 degree inclination. Talk about faith! A city bred guy like me found it extremely tough. But the local people climb regularly. I have seen even elderly women helped by their sons etc climb the hill casually.

    I understood why rural India is called the heart of our nation.

    Destination Infinity.

    ReplyDelete
  10. Nice to see pictures on your blog :)
    we are reading, keep posted and wish you Happy Journey

    ReplyDelete
  11. My trip to Badrinatha and Kedarnath is long long overdue!!
    I hope i can manage it soon!

    -Ketan
    www.ktens.com

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  12. I had been on a similar trip to Badrinath-Kedarnath, a couple of years back and I must say, it was one of the most memorable trips of my life.

    The only trip which holds sweeter memories than this one was the trip to Khajjiar(HP). Simply the most stunning place on earth.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Hi Rashmi,

    Happy to land up at your blog - interesting part is we are using the same template; our thought process matches and we read the same blogs :)
    Nice to find you!

    Shefali

    ReplyDelete
  14. Anonymous7:43 AM

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